Trip to Tortuguero
2. May: Today we're set to leave to Tortuguero National Park, which
derives it's name from the turtles, which come it's sandy beaches to lay eggs. We are
supposed to be picked at 6:20 opposite San Pedro Mall, so we need to get up really early.
We have breakfast at 5:40, do some last-minute packing, run to catch the bus to San Pedro.
We're there early, Madeleine had warned us that they might be late, so I sit, relax, and
start updating my diary. At 7:00 at last the bus arrives, we're the 4th and 5th
passengers and we get the last seats. Shit. The guide, Bernie, gets on my nerves right at
the beginning, he is loud, brash, cocky, and sniggers all the time. The a/c is way too
cold and I ask for it to be turned down.
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Last
Look into Hannelore's courtyard from our room
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The bus to San
Jose / San Pedro
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We drive through a cloud forest area and then through Brulio
Carilio National park, which has a highway through it! Our guide explains everything in
Spanish. I'm too pissed to even listen. It's a nice drive and even rains a bit and then
the road keeps descending till we reach the lowlands. It gets warmer, the rain has
stopped, and we fork off from the road to Limon and drive in the direction of Siquierres.
We see pineapple plantations and then huge banana plantations. We stop at one and watch
workers cutting the pods, others are sorting them, washing them, packing them and loading
them onto trucks. The good bananas are exported, the bad ones go to the local market.
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Rainforest
through rainy minibus window on way to Tortuguero
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Old bus at
breakfast restaurant
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Beforehand we had stopped on the way for breakfast and we get to
talk with the other travelers, who are a Belgian family of three consisting of a man
("I'm a diplomat"), his wife (who doesn't seem to grasp any conversation) and
their very young, spoiled daughter, who rarely smiles. She is here on volunteer work and
they've come over to visit her.
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Costa
Rica Country scene
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Can you see
the Sloth (part 3)? The head is looking up
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The plants themselves are sprayed with insecticide, and they are
good strong, green, healthy looking plants. They all have blue plastic bags around the
fruit, which prevents insects from getting on them and also provides additional warmth for
growth.
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Banana
plantation, bananas are wrapped in blue plastic bags
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Cutting
bananas from stem
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We stop again to watch a tree full of huge scarab beetles, kids
have picked some and placed them on branches, which they hold out for us to photograph. We
can touch the beetles, which are slow and lumbering, their bodies are velvety to the
touch. Amazing insects!
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Amazingly
huge velvety Scarab Beetles
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Boats used for
shuttle to Tortuguero
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We then reach a port "blanca
", be get onto a very
flat boat, which turns out to be quite a power machine, with a huge outboard at the back.
It skims amazingly smoothly at high speed over the flat, tranquil water of the river.
Tortuguero can only be reached by water, there are no roads leading there. We stop on the
way for a drink, there is reggae music and several young black Rasta guys milling about.
We continue on to Laguna Lodge, and on the way the boat stops a
number of times to view all sorts of wildlife on the river, there is a crocodile, several
birds and monkeys. The lady manager is already waiting for us at the lodge and gives us a
good reception with a welcome drink. We get our rooms, which are very nice and above our
usual standard, and then head for lunch with cabbage, cucumber, tomato, good sauce, meat,
rice, vegetables, dessert, fruit juice. Everything is included except bottled drinks.
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Canals
to Tortuguero
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A real live
crocodile
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Black
riverbank
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Tiger Heron
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A stick
insect
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Lazy howler
monkeys
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The Hotel has a canal/river on one side and the Caribbean
Sea on the other, and it's a nice beach with lots of strange logs of dead trees littering
the beach. There are dangerous currents here and swimming is unfortunately not allowed. In
the afternoon, we tour to Tortuguero village, which is a really small, local place, very
laid back. It has a turtle museum (I didn't fancy there was anything in it, so I skipped),
I bought some postcards and even found the post office, which was actually run out of a
local flat. Unfortunately, they're out of stamps. We've been joined by a Dutch and an
Italian couple.
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Heliconia
at Tortuguero Lodge
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Lizard at
Lodge
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Very smooth
Canal water surface
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Wild beach at
Lodge (no swimming!)
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Kids
playing in Tortuguero Village
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"Mini"
Super Market
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It is hot and humid. Bernie knows a lot and has
rehabilitated himself with me. He's switched to English. Dinner is similar to lunch,
there's Spaghetti with chicken pieces. Next morning we need to meet at 6:15 to start the
dawn tour of the park.